Watch News: Seiko Divers History
Seiko divers history: from the 1965 150m to modern Prospex
The first Seiko diver, the 1965 150m, ref. 62M-7001, was rated to 150 meters and cost the equivalent of a month’s salary for the average Japanese worker.
In 1965, Seiko dropped a watch that would change the game forever: the 150m, ref. 62M-7001. It wasn’t just another diver. It was Japan’s first serious answer to the Swiss dominance in dive watches, and it set the stage for everything Seiko would do next. At a time when Rolex was already on its third generation of the Submariner, Seiko proved it could play in the big leagues with a watch that was rugged, affordable, and built for real-world use. This wasn’t a toy for desk divers. It was a tool for people who actually got their hands wet.
The 1960s: Seiko’s first dive watch and the birth of a legend
The 1965 150m ref. 62M-7001
The 150m wasn’t just a diver by name. It was the real deal, with a 37mm stainless steel case, a rotating bezel, and a crown at 3 o’clock. It wasn’t the prettiest watch, but it was built like a tank. The movement inside was the Seiko 62M caliber, a 17-jewel manual-wind workhorse that kept ticking no matter what you threw at it. The dial was simple: black with lume plots, a date window at 3 o’clock, and a seconds hand that didn’t skip a beat. It was the kind of watch you could take diving one day and wear to the office the next without missing a beat.
What’s wild is that this watch was released the same year as the Seiko Astron, the world’s first quartz watch. While the Astron was breaking new ground in accuracy, the 150m was proving Seiko could hold its own in the mechanical dive watch space. It was a one-two punch that put the world on notice.
The 1967 300m Hi-Beat Diver’s 200m
Just two years later, Seiko upped the ante with the 300m Hi-Beat Diver’s 200m, ref. 6159-7001. This was Seiko’s first true high-beat diver, running at 36,000 vph, which was a big deal in the late 1960s. The case was larger at 42mm, and it featured a more robust design with a thicker bezel and crown guards. The movement, the caliber 6159, was a high-beat automatic that was as reliable as it was accurate.
But here’s the kicker: despite the name, the 300m Hi-Beat was actually rated to 200 meters. The naming was a bit confusing, but the watch itself was anything but. It was a monster in terms of performance, and it set the standard for what a Seiko diver should be. This was the watch that proved Seiko wasn’t just playing catch-up with the Swiss. They were innovating in their own right.
The 1970s: The golden age of Seiko divers
The 1970 6105-8000 “Willard” and the birth of the Tuna
If the 1960s were about proving Seiko could make a diver, the 1970s were about proving they could make the best divers. Enter the 6105-8000, better known as the “Willard” thanks to its starring role in the 1971 film Apocalypse Now. Martin Sheen’s character, Captain Willard, wore this watch throughout the movie, and it became an instant icon. The 6105 was a 44mm beast with a cushion case, a rotating bezel, and a crown at 4 o’clock for better comfort on the wrist. The movement was the caliber 6105, a 17-jewel automatic that was as tough as the watch itself.
But the real star of the 1970s was the Seiko Tuna. The first Tuna, the 6159-7010, hit the scene in 1975 and was a game-changer. The nickname “Tuna” came from the watch’s massive, tuna-can-like case, which was designed to house Seiko’s first true 600m diver. The case was a monocoque design, meaning the movement was loaded from the front, and the crystal was a thick, domed piece of acrylic that could handle serious pressure. The bezel was a 120-click unidirectional design, and the crown was protected by massive guards. Inside was the caliber 6159, the same high-beat movement from the earlier 300m Hi-Beat, but now in a case that could handle just about anything.
The Tuna wasn’t just a diver. It was a statement. It said, “We’re not just making dive watches. We’re making the toughest dive watches on the planet.”
The 1977 7548-7000: Seiko’s first quartz diver
While the 1970s were dominated by mechanical divers, Seiko didn’t forget about quartz. In 1977, they released the 7548-7000, their first quartz diver. This watch was a departure from the mechanical beasts of the decade, but it was no less impressive. The case was a more modest 39mm, and it featured a rotating bezel and a crown at 4 o’clock. The movement was the caliber 7548, a quartz workhorse that was accurate to within ±15 seconds per month.
The 7548 wasn’t just a diver. It was proof that Seiko could apply their dive watch expertise to any technology. And while it didn’t have the same cult following as the Tuna or the Willard, it was a crucial part of Seiko’s evolution as a dive watch manufacturer.
The 1980s and 1990s: Refining the formula
The 1983 7549-7009 “Tuna” and the rise of the Prospex line
The 1980s saw Seiko refining their dive watch formula. In 1983, they released the 7549-7009, a quartz-powered Tuna that was rated to 600m. This watch was a direct descendant of the original Tuna, but it featured a more refined design and a quartz movement that was even more accurate than its mechanical predecessors. The case was still massive, but the overall design was sleeker and more modern.
This was also the decade that saw the birth of the Prospex line. Prospex, short for “Professional Specifications,” was Seiko’s way of branding their most serious tool watches. The line included divers, but it also expanded to include other professional-grade watches like chronographs and GMTs. The Prospex name became synonymous with toughness, reliability, and value, and it’s a name that Seiko still uses today.
The 1996 SKX007: The people’s diver
If there’s one Seiko diver that’s defined the brand for the past few decades, it’s the SKX007. Released in 1996, the SKX007 was a 42mm automatic diver that was rated to 200m. It featured a rotating bezel, a crown at 4 o’clock, and the caliber 7S26 movement, a 21-jewel automatic that was as reliable as it was simple. The SKX007 wasn’t just a great diver. It was a watch that checked all the boxes: tough, affordable, and stylish.
What made the SKX007 special was its accessibility. This wasn’t a watch that cost thousands of dollars. It was a watch that everyday people could afford, and it quickly became a favorite among divers, collectors, and watch enthusiasts alike. The SKX007 was proof that you didn’t need to spend a fortune to get a great dive watch. Seiko had been saying that for decades, but the SKX007 was the watch that really drove the point home.
The 2000s to today: Modern Seiko divers and the Prospex evolution
The 2000s: The rise of the Monster and the reissue craze
The 2000s saw Seiko doubling down on what made their divers great. In 2000, they released the SKX779, a variation of the SKX007 with a black bezel and different dial furniture, followed in 2001 by the SRP307 “Monster,” a rugged 42.4mm diver with oversized lume plots and a shrouded case built to survive far rougher treatment than the SKX line. The Monster became its own cult favorite almost immediately, prized by divers and collectors who wanted the toughness of the Tuna in a more wearable package.
The 2010s brought the modern Prospex era into full focus, with the SLA017 and SLA042 reissues resurrecting the 1968 and 1970 designs almost line for line, this time with in-house Spring Drive and mechanical movements built to contemporary tolerances. Seiko had spent five decades proving it could build a diver as tough as anything from Switzerland. By the time these reissues arrived, the company was no longer chasing that reputation. It was simply defending it.
From the 62M-7001 to the modern Prospex catalog, the throughline has never changed: Seiko divers exist to be used, not just collected, and that philosophy is exactly why they still sell.
Play today’s watch at https://game.watchdle.com/.
