Favre Leuba Chief Tourbillon Guilloché: 25 Pieces, CHF
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Favre Leuba introduced the Chief Tourbillon Guilloché on 23 October 2026, a limited run of 25 pieces priced at CHF 26,000. It is the second limited edition of the Chief Tourbillon, following the 2025 original, and retains that watch’s 41 mm cushion-shaped steel case and hand-wound tourbillon calibre. The change lies on the dial, which now carries a hand-engraved surface in cornflower blue. The brand itself traces back to 1737.
Barleycorn By Hand: Five To Six Hours Per Dial
The new dial is worked in a grain d’orge, or barleycorn, pattern that radiates outward from the centre, according to Watchonista. Each surface is engraved by hand on a vintage rose engine lathe dating from the late nineteenth century, a process that takes five to six hours per dial. Deployant adds that the metal is then electroplated into its cornflower blue tone.
Patrik Hoffmann, chief executive of Favre Leuba, framed the work as a way of distinguishing each watch, telling Watchonista that the guilloché makes “every timepiece truly one of a kind.”
The applied indexes are rhodium-plated and filled with Super-LumiNova C1 X1, as are the central hour and minute hands; both glow blue in the dark. At six o’clock, a flame-blued small seconds hand sits above the tourbillon aperture.
A 41 mm Cushion Case With 10 ATM Of Water Resistance
The case measures 41 mm across, stands 11.45 mm tall and spans 47.8 mm lug to lug, the last figure per Deployant. Water resistance is rated at 10 ATM. A curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating sits on top — for why that coating matters, see our piece on anti-reflective treatment — while a sapphire caseback opens a view of the movement.
Buyers get two options on the wrist: a stainless-steel bracelet with brushed H-shaped links and polished central links, or an interchangeable blue FKM rubber strap matched to the dial.
The FL T01 And Its Hourglass Bridge
Power comes from the hand-wound FL T01, developed with Jean-François Mojon of Chronode and built on the Chronode C502 base. Mojon’s workshop has also created movements for MB&F, Czapek and Hermès. Readers weighing what it means for a brand to lean on an outside specialist may find our look at in-house versus outsourced movements useful.
The calibre runs at 3 Hz, or 21,600 beats per hour, and offers a 60-hour power reserve. Its one-minute tourbillon measures 14.85 mm across — more on the complication itself in our tourbillon explainer — and its bridge is shaped as an interpretation of the hourglass from Favre Leuba’s emblem.
Finishing is extensive: an anthracite hue, horizontal brushing, circular graining, Côtes de Genève and blue screws, with Deployant noting an engraved ratchet and polished chamfers. Through the exhibition caseback, a spiral-relief hourglass motif sits against a finely laser-engraved, satin-like surface, according to Watchonista.
Pricing, Packaging And The Sold-Out Predecessor
At CHF 26,000, the Guilloché edition costs CHF 1,200 more than the 2025 Chief Tourbillon, which launched at CHF 24,800 and has since sold out. The reveal was timed to an embargo that lifted at 3pm CET on 23 October 2026, as Deployant reports. Each watch ships in a wooden presentation box containing an additional rubber strap, a medallion and a loupe.
To see the small details up close, a watch loupe helps.
If telling guilloché patterns and caseback finishes apart at a glance is a skill you enjoy testing, the daily watch-identification game Watchdle puts it to work.
FAQ
How does the Guilloché edition differ from the 2025 Chief Tourbillon?
The case and FL T01 movement carry over; the dial changes to a hand-guilloché barleycorn pattern in cornflower blue, replacing the previous treatment. The price also rises by CHF 1,200, from CHF 24,800 to CHF 26,000.
Who is behind the FL T01 calibre?
The hand-wound movement was developed by Jean-François Mojon of Chronode for Favre Leuba and is based on the Chronode C502. Mojon’s other work includes movements for MB&F, Czapek and Hermès.
What comes in the presentation box?
Alongside the watch, the wooden box holds an additional rubber strap, a medallion and a loupe.
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