Chinese Watchmaking: From Reverse Engineering to Today
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1955: China’s First Wristwatch
Chinese wristwatch production began in 1955 with the WuXing, or Five Stars, model, according to Monochrome. A team of four Chinese watchmakers designed the calibre around an archaic Swiss pin-lever movement containing only five jewels. Monochrome notes that a fully jewelled movement requires at least 17 jewels, placing the WuXing below that standard.
Early Comparisons: Japan and Europe
Monochrome records that Japan released its first domestic pocket watch in 1895, the Seiko Timekeeper, and its first wristwatch in 1913, the Seiko Laurel. Swiss and British watchmaking date back to the 16th century. For broader context on wristwatch origins, see The History Of The Wristwatch.
The Shanghai A581 Movement
Shanghai’s first fully jewelled, mass-produced domestic movement was the A581, according to Monochrome. It was based on the Swiss AS 1187 calibre and/or the AS 1194 and served as the primary domestic movement until the mid-1960s. The Shanghai Watch Factory then designed the SS1 series to replace it.
State Consolidation and the Tongji Calibre
The Chinese government launched the Ministry of Light Industry Initiative to consolidate production, according to Monochrome. In the early 1970s, most factories halted their existing projects to concentrate solely on the new Tongji calibre. Monochrome explains that Tongji was reverse-engineered from the Swiss Enicar AR1010 and intended to deliver consistent, reliable, and highly affordable watches to the domestic population. More than 30 factories manufactured it. The specification called for at least 17 jewels, a 3Hz rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour, accuracy within plus or minus 30 seconds per day, and a 40-hour power reserve. By the early 1980s, output reached 33 million units, more than five times the figure from a decade earlier.
Factory Growth and the Holy Trinity
By the end of the 1950s, eight major factories had been established: Shanghai, Tianjin, Beijing, Guangzhou, Nanjing, Jilin, Qingdao, and Liaoning, according to Monochrome. The total eventually exceeded one hundred factories across China, while the original eight remained dominant well into the 1980s. Monochrome identifies Shanghai, Tianjin, and Beijing as China’s horological Holy Trinity. Tianjin, trading as Sea-Gull, produced the first pilot’s chronograph for the People’s Liberation Army Air Force. Prior to the 1970s consolidation, Tianjin had already designed a movement independent of total foreign influence.
Project 304 and the ST19
Project 304 was a state secret initiated in 1961, according to Monochrome. The project imported tooling from Switzerland’s Venus Watch Company for calibre 175. By the end of 1963, the second batch of prototypes was finished and approved, and 1,400 pieces were completed in 1966 for the PLAAF. The resulting calibre ST19 drew from the Venus 175, added a 30-minute and small seconds sub-dial layout, and used 19 jewels rather than the Venus counterpart’s 17. It was a column wheel chronograph refined to handle high g-forces, extreme temperatures, shocks, and magnetism. The watch became commonly referenced as 1963, and modern Sea-Gull chronographs carry that name.
Modern Tributes and Export Volume
Monochrome describes a modern Sea-Gull 1963 tribute piece with a 38mm diameter, a high-domed acrylic crystal, and a hand-wound ST19 column wheel chronograph movement. Its period-correct beige dial pairs gold indices, blue hands, and a red chronograph seconds hand. This version is also called the Red Star model because of a red star at 12 o’clock and a Chinese reference to Tianjin Watch Factory at 6 o’clock. Faithful modern examples of the 1963 watch cost less than USD 1,000.
To see the small details up close, a watch loupe helps.
Enthusiasts can test diver-watch setting at Watchdle: https://watchdle.com/play/
On scale, China produces more watches than all of Europe combined and holds over 30 percent of the global market, according to Monochrome. Chinese exports reached around 600 million units in 2025 with an estimated value of USD 18 billion, while Swiss exports numbered less than 15 million units valued at USD 31 billion. For comparison across major production regions, see Swiss Vs Japanese Watchmaking: Two Philosophies.
FAQ
What defined the Tongji calibre?
Monochrome states the Tongji calibre was reverse-engineered from the Swiss Enicar AR1010 and produced by more than 30 factories. Its specification required at least 17 jewels, a 3Hz rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour, accuracy within plus or minus 30 seconds per day, and a 40-hour power reserve.
How many Chinese watch factories existed at peak?
Eight major factories were established by the end of the 1950s, including Shanghai, Tianjin, and Beijing, according to Monochrome. The total eventually surpassed one hundred factories, while the original eight remained dominant well into the 1980s.
What distinguishes the modern Sea-Gull 1963 Red Star?
The modern 38mm tribute uses a hand-wound ST19 column wheel chronograph and a high-domed acrylic crystal. Its beige dial carries gold indices, blue hands, and a red chronograph seconds hand, while the Red Star variant adds a red star at 12 o’clock and a Tianjin Watch Factory reference at 6 o’clock.
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